Do you know the way to Rishikesh?

So after a snafu...the ticket agent sold me a ticket to Ahallabad instead of the nearset station to Varansi...so i failed to get off the train...but no worries...Vimalalakshila? was where I got off and got a bus so instead of arriving 6pm. I got to Varansi at 10:30 by bus...The fortunate thing is that the first person I met was R. Panda who was able to hook me up with a nice hotel and gave me the whirlwind guide I needed for such a short stay. Without him I would have missed much...He turns out to have a masters in Eng. Lit. too. I did go to Deer Park the first day of course. In the evening we stopped at the Durga temple it is her week after all and then we headed for the river for the evening puja which was fantastic. I got to have my first sugarcane/beet/lime juice which I've been eyeing since arriving in India. TASTY! Memories too of chewing on s.c. after begging my mom to buy it for me at Stater bros as a kid. But I'm sure it never tasted this good. Lime the amazing perk to any dish. The next morning I was up before dawn and took a ride on the river...supposedly very auspicious to see the sun rise from the Ganga and this ancient city really is beautiful by the dawns early light. Plus the bodies weren't yet burning. Somehow I missed the burns though I did see some preparations. Then over to the university and the Shiva temple very shanti. There was even a statue of him with many heads...first I've seen of this...he's usually represented as an abstract form and last but not least a visit to the silk weaving district. Where I couldn't resist to buy a piece of pink/orange to be made into a kurta later.
Then the long train to Haridwar where I am now. My room looks out on a great view of the aqua building across the street with the relief of krishna with his flute and the mountains behind. So far this is the cleanest place I've been in all of asia I think. Of course it is Durga festival now as it was in Benares so many pilgrims are arriving everyday...Yesterday I took a walk down to the bathing ghats and made long life prayers for my family...that's what 100 r will get you...not sure what 1000 gets. As my friend Supron says religion is an expensive business.
So today I will take a walk with the crowd up to the temple on the mountain I'm assuming it won't be hard to find the stream of pilgrims going up. The architecture here is really beautiful and old. Pink seems to be a favorite color. Except for ashrams which vary.
Tomorrow I will catch an autoriksha to Rishikesh. How could I not. Or if I get the chance Rajaji National Park is on the way and I'm told it's worth the expense to spend a night or day over there. Maybe see a tiger?!
The weather is very comfortable here, a nice breeze and cool air. Last night there was a thunder shower and the air was even fresher this morning.

last days bodhgaya

The thing about hunting mosquitos is.....when you're ready for bed even the net sometimes has a few hiding in the shadows and they must be expelled before sleep or you wake up to malaria injections...hahaha...of course I laugh but seriously....in order to catch a mosqito you must first hypnotize it. If it's flying around all pesky like it will be really hard to catch...what you want is a still mosqeeter. Now there are several methods, of course everybody knows the deadly slapping one. There's the the catch it in your hand as it's flying one but this is pretty hard to do. If it's sitting still sometimes you can grab it by the leg and toss it out on it's ass. But the method I've found that seems to work best is to use the catch it in the zip lock bag system. This is still pretty hard if they're flying around therefore this is where the hypnotizing comes in...Of course it doesn't hurt to just explain to them that if they bite, they die! Once you've caught a moszqito and it's in the bag so to speak it's best to try to catch another without loosing the first one before sticking your bag outside of the netting, as of course this can allow others to sneak in. Then make sure they are both out of the bag before bringing it back inside...sometimes it's pretty hard to see that tiny body through the plastic and the net. Turn the bag upside down and shake, shake, shake. Sometimes they just don't get the message after one shake. Continue till all sqetters are evicted. Don't be surpirsed if you missed a few as they like to hide in the shady corners and seams. but don't worry you'll know if you got them all around 1 pm. Happy hunting.
So I was very lucky in meeting my friend Brajes (owner of the internet shop at Welcome Guesthouse) who was so helpful to take me to the best/ most honest puke dealer in town...if your ever here and need puker help "Solar City" is the place and Rajit is the man. Was able to get new cord/box rather than refurbished at the same price...we like this. And now the lesson is unplug before leaving the room. Of course as I thought it did take a few extra days...
On to more interesting things.
This morning as it's my last full day here I decided to walk across the river again over to Suchata's temple etal...lovely breezy day for a walk, still it's good to have the silver umbrella for a long walk like that. Two grade school boys of course showed up on the other side wanting to show me the way and be helpful and we had a pleasant walk through the wheat fields and cabbage patches. Once there it was a lovely place to sit and breath the fresh air of the countryside and if you wait long enough someone you know always turns up...this time another of Brajes' friends who likes to take tourist on his motorbike to local sites...wonderful as I was just thinking it might be a good day to visit the MahaKala cave where the Buddha sat his first winter retreat...Sudi had a client to return to B.G. so I enjoyed the peace for awhile till he returned...then we rode out to the mountain down the back roads...bumpy and sandy...and memories of being on the back of my dad's racing bike in the desert as a kid. The cave is worth a visit if you're ever here...Another place is Golpa but that's a jeep ride away on the famous Bihar roads and a real climb up to the top of the mountain.
Caught up with the Bhutan monks again (did I mention that Supron accidently took me to their monastery? thought it was a tibetan one) at the stupa...the ranks are weakening as many monks have gone to the mountain monastery...but my friend Sonam, the Karmapa look alike, disciplinarian is still here and we had a nice chat about dharma after evening monlam prayers.
On the way to pick up my train ticket this evening I ran into the daughter of one Thai nun from the Royal Thai wat who had sprained her ankle...she's the cook. So like all good Bhutan massage therapists I got out the butter and salt and started working...I guess it helped because Pou greeted me most happily and is sending her mom back to see me tomorrow before I leave for Varanasi. Where I will stay for just a day and a morning before going to Haridwar and Rishikesh which is of course on the way to Dharamsala. "Sorry Rinpoche. " Maybe this blog should be called "Someday I'll make it to Dharamsala". You'd think I'd be more in a hurry since HHDL is leaving for Bezerkly soon. Ah wellllllll.

ahhh bodhgaya

Just when the last leaves had fallen and been harvested by every greedy hand that could reach one this amazing tree after one day is blooming new red leaves. Leaves that are as small as your pinkie nail to the size of a silver dollar. Unlike the older ones that are thick and brown and dead these are still alive and delicate. If you dare you can put them in your salad. I had a handful of the little white curls that drop as the leaf emerges in a tea and stayed up all night in front of the tree feeling my stomach gurgling...it's said they are good for difficult births...trouble reaching enlightenment? So yes I spent the night in a mosquito tent under the boddhi tree with a korean friend from australia who arrived on her way from 3 mos. in lumbini on her way home and she was inspired to spend the night so I tagged along. The great thing is that this is the season when puppies are learning to be dogs...so the barking and yelping go on deep into the night. Yes, great because just when I was falling asleep a dog fight breaks out inches away...I can't tell you how many times this happened. Everytime greatful to "wake up" and think "oh yeah, I'm supposed to be practincing".

So of all places bodhgaya is where I've purchased my first "puker". Supron left it with me for the work I will supposedly be doing in Dharamsala. Of course the electricity here in Bihar killed the power box on the plug so now I'm waiting for the dealer to get me a refurbished one as he already tried to repair mine but it's to burned up. So now he says deffinetely he can have it day after tomorrow in the morning if not tomorrow night. But still I will not purchase my train ticket because this is India...and it could be next week...

The days now are too hot to be outside in the middle of the day. So most practice is coming to the main temple about 4:15 am. Return to Wat Pa for breakfast at 8:00 to serve the monks. Then living in the room with the fan on inside the mosquito net my korean friend left for me until about 4 pm when its nearing the time when it will cool down...dinner, etc...then to the temple till 9pm when they lock the gates. It's a 5 min walk to Wat Pa and all the ladies selling butter lamps know I wont buy any by now. Though I've already decided I'll do it as I'm leaving.

I stopped by the Mongolian temple which is under construction and the man I met told me major construction has stopped now due to Bihar regulations...paper work...he of course knows who Rinpoche is. I hear it over and over again about all the paper work in Bihar and how it's really important to go through the process before you begin your project...some sites seem to have been sitting unfinished for year. So we must pray that the obstacles for the mongolians will be cleared away...Time to go now I hear the metal gates being closed next door for the night.

p.s. the blog says sunday but for me it's now monday.

Bodhgaya cont.

So for all of you waiting for amazing pics....keep breathing.
I am after all in India. Where even if I can hook up my camera it's another thing to download...
o.k. so I write. Yesterday Supron and I walked across the river bed to the Thai wat and had a relaxing visit there...the air is so much cleaner and there's very few people about except for buses going to Suchata's house. ON the way back we stopped at a Hindu temple and got a tour from a man called Siva. He took us out to the gardens in back...this house was once owned by the raj who built the main budha stupa. The grounds here are very quiet maybe 2 visitors everyday. Really lovely to walk around and explore the ruins where one sees signs of budha everywhere. Even in the walls as support for brick archways.
Once again Wat Pa surprises....after chanting last night the head monk didn't move an inch...many of the thai people were a little confused as we usually get up right after...they were looking to see if he fell asleep...but no, we did sitting medition for about half an hour. Afterward one monk asked him about it and all I understood was something about america. So I guess it's known that we are helped by sitting meditation.

Bodhgaya

First day at the maha stupa as I was leaving I met Supron, of thai massage in Mill Valley fame, and was invited to stay at the Thai wat just behind the main temple. Literally a 4 min. walk to the tree from my room and I can see the stupa from our front door! It's also wonderful to be practicing with the thai monks.
Yesterday morning we walked over about 5 am and met up with the bhutanese monks that are doing puja everday during losar which ends tomorrow. So we've been coming to help fill the 3.960 water bowls. This morning we started at 4:30 as we will the rest of the week. They were really surprised to hear me speak to them....Kuzu tsampo la....etc.
I'm very happy practicing here for now and so will continue till it feels right to leave for Dharamsala. Will try posting photos later....

Kolkata

Hi all,
Was about to leave here knowing I was missing some pretty great stuff when I met this kind gentleman who worked at one time with Mother Theresa with the dying and he offered to show me some places that I still wanted to go....plus other stuff....if anybody is thinking of coming here I can deffinetly recommend that you get in touch with him....
So I've spent the last 3 days going to Ramakrishnas Kali temple and mausoleum which is really incredibly a peaceful place. As soon as I walked through the gate it was as if all the energy was dropped into the ground. Sitting in the mausoleum is also truly incredible....just sitting there...sitting, sitting...then the guards start telling everybody to scoot forward and sit between the pillars and all of a sudden the doors to the shrine open and everybody is up and prostrating and bowing and I'm just sitting, sitting...and hearing the shuffling of bare feet and there is still such a stillness with all these feet rushing forward past me....ahhhhh. Then just as suddenly the doors close and the lights go out and everybody is headed for the door and guards with bells are telling everyone it's time to leave the grounds....ohhhhhh.
Then its time for the ferry ride back to town...on the river it's cooler you know. The humidity is really beginning. Again with global warming. Fishermen mending their nets, kids diving into the river from the ferry, herons flying past, dead dog floating by, people asking me where I'm from, school children laughing and smiling at me and the occasional "hello, how are you?" I'm fine. How are you? "ummmm I'm fine! ahahahahahaha"
Today we went to the Jain temple...my what a gorgeous place. all tile and mirror. like candy inside. We also visited the area where all the sculptures are made. One master sculpture let me sit and watch him for awhile....he was deffinetly a master at 65 y.o. and could totaly impact the expression of his figure in about 1.5 seconds. Everything is made with bamboo structures, rice shearings and clay. Left to dry and then the final clay layer is put on and sculpted with small wooden spatulas....the newer houses are using fiberglass molds....worrisome....no one was using a mask. Finally my favorite restaurant here is run by a Sikh guy...no surprises there....if anybody gets to Sartaj back home tell Basi and Balbeer I love and miss them.

So for now that's it...I'll be in bodhgaya tomorrow...till then take it easy.