If you have facebook you've probably already seen all the photos that follow...photos from my most recent trip to spiti yet to be posted....and on that note... this years trip to spiti, what can I say...it was great...no electricity, snow in june, road closed due to landslides, no electricity, everybody got the flu and had to take antibiotics, on the up side there is finally an ATM in Kaza but did I mention there was no electricity... a month of dharma in Pin valley with Dzongsar Khentse R. hiking about 40 mins. in the morning and evening from the village of Gulling to Kongri rain or snow...lots of snow...better than living in Mud where I started out...at the end of the road...last village in Pin Valley...my backpack got stranded there the 3rd day into the retreat for 5 days which meant I was lucky to meet a lama who made sure I had a warm place to sleep at his moms house, tho by the 3rd day I did have to go buy a set of clothes and a toothbrush till my backpack could make the return trip to join me. It was a great feeling to be without the things I brought with me a real sense of being a yogi with nothing. I even started to wonder what it was I had in that full backpack back there in Mud. I do recommend that if you ever make it to Pin valley you must visit Mud and if you're lucky you'll find a baby yak on the bus as well as a goat...be assured they have to pay the same fare as everybody else. So every morning I would get up and be gone from the house around 5a.m. so I could follow Pema to the gonpa. On the 2nd or 3rd day a goat followed me to the gonpa. Smart goat, all those food offerings being tossed outside for the critters. On the way home Pema and I would look for mushrooms that like to sprout up out of the snow. By the middle of June the spring flowers were blooming and in that landscape it's quite amazing to see since for the most part, areas that aren't cultivated appear to be brown, dirt and rocks and landslides. Till you're in it and discover loads of flowers blooming. The early spring (june) is the only time that the rivers run blue...most of the time the snowmelt runs brown with dirt.
After leaving Pin Valley I went on pilgrimage to some of the spiti gonpas that I hadn't visited last year. One of which included a trek 2 days up to a place near the tibetan border. Up above the last gonpa about a 2 hour hike towards the border as I looked east I could see the green triangle of the 1st village in tibet which had the look of any kinnaur village which means it was probably full of apricot trees, almonds, apples etc. Distance in the Himalayas is distorted and I figured as close as it looked it was probably still about 2 days of hiking away but I waved hello anyway and hung some prayer flags...had tea with the lamas that I treked in with and thanked buddha for Mi Chenmo's (big mans) patience. On the way back the trail which was hard enough to trek when the downside was on my right was even harder when it was on my left...perhaps thats how the astigmatism in my eyes works...areas that tibetans just walk across like goats were areas of serious pause for me to gather my courage and try to understand where it was I was supposed to put my feet even tho I knew I had crossed the same path hours before. It was not so much a fear of heights as it was a fear of depths. Mi Chenmo would assure me that I could do it by pushing me along and holding his walking stick out as tho it was going to stop me from falling off the face of the mountain. Then back to the gonpa and a night spent in a room full of pilgrims and the next day back to the road...but first crossing a river via basket spinner...not as exciting and scary as it sounds...tho I have heard of some that sounded quite adventurous this one was a main thoroughfare as the bridge had collapsed and it was the quickest way to get supplies across then onto donkeys and up to the village. Unbelievably these remote places had electricity and once we were back to "civilization" (the roadside villages) there was no electricity. So if you didn't get it by now the theme of spiti this year was No Electricity...afterall it is the Himalayas...what were you expecting?
to be cont'd.

2009 himachal pradesh

shimla 2009

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=93383&id=739924537&l=4bd53c3a6e

manali 2009

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=93193&id=739924537&l=e2ec62d24b

around dharamsala 2009

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=162938&id=739924537&l=01a9d5b479

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=160232&id=739924537&l=86db4cdbf4

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=152984&id=739924537&l=8a6d843d13

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=153392&id=739924537&l=3bb8aed3a6

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=129225&id=739924537&l=38a11ecfd0

spiti 2009

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=137863&id=739924537&l=c739f78636

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=137910&id=739924537&l=2f0244d9de

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=140650&id=739924537&l=baaf3b0e14

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=144866&id=739924537&l=0cf4a95939

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=147572&id=739924537&l=0c8ed1ec77

tso pema 2010 losar

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=152750&id=739924537&l=607729

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=152746&id=739924537&l=e5478ada2d53f3

kashmir 2009

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=120741&id=739924537&l=10a3254a3e

ladakh photos 2009

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=121944&id=739924537&l=b7c9f02ee4

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=131972&id=739924537&l=f573ed1da

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=137905&id=739924537&l=0f3bc8a0351

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=137280&id=739924537&l=86f937e891

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=133057&id=739924537&l=a996bccd8d

bhutan photos from 2009 for those not on facebook

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=86794&id=739924537&l=ef2b0e9d9e

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=87981&id=739924537&l=784e655fbe

Beginning to Serve

Since living in Rewalsar (Tso Pema name in Tibetan) for some time, what naturally arises is the desire to be of some benefit to the community. With the training I have in Traditional Chinese Medicine and various modalities of massage I can’t help but notice when people are suffering and in pain in their bodies. So this is how I’ve come to reach out by offering to ease the pains of people who might not otherwise have the benefit of treatment. Also just up the road my friend Lena is a good example of someone serving this community through her knowledge of the body.(She's lived here about 20 yrs.) Recently when I wasn’t feeling so good I went up and she gifted me with a Chi Nei Tsang treatment which is how I came to find out that many years before she had also studied with Dr. Angela Wu (Chen) and the connection doesn’t stop there. My first week on the job at Spirit Rock she arrived with Lama Wangdor and translated for him. While he was talking I hoped that if I ever made it to India I would accidentally meet them again and as the fates would have it here I’ve landed.

It all started with my dancer friend Meenu who had a broken leg. Then her sister Tara wasn’t feeling well and I knew I could help her. Then I was walking around the lake and I noticed one nun was holding her back as she walked. With my limited Tibetan and the help of a friend I got it across to her that she should come up to my room and I would work with her.

Later that afternoon she arrived with another nun in tow. These sessions were interesting of course since the communication was very limited. But anyone who’s ever had a massage knows that at some point language isn’t necessary…However there are some basic things that it is necessary to get across. Like pointing out when someone needs to breath or when they need to let go of holding their muscles and relax into the ground or table or whatever. I imagine in time I will find the words to express these things but for now it is a practice in patience and trusting that through the process they will come about naturally. Maybe not in the first 3 sessions and maybe not ever (though I doubt that, eventually everyone under my touch relaxes).

In my 2nd session with Ani Tsherin Dikki as we were working together there was one profound moment when clearer than anything I saw/ met/ felt the presence of Medicine Buddha. Now, when I used to find myself at a loss in my work I would call in vain for insight to know what I needed to do next. But here I was just doing what I do and voila, Medicine Buddha appears. He didn’t stick around but just let his presence be known. Now I could only think that it was the great faith of this Ani that brought him so clearly to mind.
That was just last night, after our session Ani la invited me up to her house in Spiti in the Pin Valley which I didn’t visit last time as the road was closed due to a mud slide. (A funny coincidence is that the name of the last village in the Pin Valley is Mud, pronounce mood). So in about 10 days I will journey up there with her and about 4 other nuns. During the time we will be there Dzongsar Khentse Rinpoche (who made the movie The Cup) will be giving some important teaching of Dudjom Rinpoche.
Recently on a visit to Bir I had the chance to attend the last day of a teaching he gave on Boddhicitta. Perhaps it’s better not to go on the last day of a teaching. Even though I got it, that I was missing the 3 previous days I left feeling quite skeptical (which turned out to be really good for practice). So now due to whatever karma, I find myself about to take a very long journey on a road you don’t want to imagine back to a really beautiful place to receive teachings from this very famous, popular guy. What’s not to be skeptical about.

Back to the important issue...

I’d like to find a way to stay in India and offer massage to people in need. The way of life of people in Himachal and Ladakh is incredibly hard on their bodies. Often it’s not a doctor they need but just some good bodywork sessions. These people are poor and hard working farmers who carry everything on their backs. Even if you could afford it you could never use machinery here due to the landscape. The lack of machinery is one of the things that has kept the culture and landscape alive. Most people are incredibly strong and able to handle it but you can see the wear of it on the old people stooped over barely able to walk. Even there is a lack of doctors and though massage isn’t intended to replace medical treatment it can at least assist people who need help in the moment. So, what is it I need. Well, about $250 a month would cover all expenses. So if you know of anybody looking for a project to support please pass this info along. They can contact me here by clicking on the comment button or go to facebook.
p.s. I will probably need help setting up some sort of N.P.O. in order to make this work so if anyone can help with that would be great!

chauntra

Chetsang Rinpoche who is the head of the Drikung kagyu lineage came to bless the new gonpa and spend a few days. The area around the gonpa was strewn with hanging flowers, strands of yellow and green marigolds while arrangements of gerber daisies and (the long stemmed ones we use for weddings and funerals) hung in bunches throughout the center. The mornings were filled with prayers while the afternoons were festive with entertainment provided by some of the local schools and a few performers from TIPA.
The day I decided to stay in Bir. I found myself at the small Drikung gonpa behind the guest house I was staying at where lots of local tibetans were waiting for Chetsang Rinpoche to arrive. So...nowhere to go I hung around. The nice thing was that compared with Chauntra the group assembled to get blessing from him was quite small at about 150 people compared to about 1,500 or more. Once he arrived and the prayers were said and the tea drunk we all lined up and as I bent my head to receive blessing to my surprise he asked me in perfect english where I was from. From that I couldn't help mentioning that we had been at Lamayuru in Ladakh on the same day he departing as I arrived.
The next day he gave Phowa instructions in the morning and blessing to every person who stood in that line in the afternoon. Even though I'd received blessings the day before I found it worth it to stay. I waited till closer to the end and I think that was about 2 hrs. before I got into it. So impressive and beautiful to see.
Many of the sponsors for this new gonpa were from Taiwan. May they be happy and continue to have the good fortune to support the dharma.

Guru Rinpoche Day

The streets are so crowed it's almost a hazard. The one thing going for it is that most people, 99.9% of them are all walking in the same direction...kora...around the lake. This is a time when I would have to say it's great I've been here for a few months. Local faces stand out in the crowd and smile and greet me in whatever native dialect is theirs and invite me to sit or take chai and we both comment on how many; mangpo, mangpo; people there are and it seems like a relief for both of us to have a familiar face to chat with; whoever it is at the moment.

I can feel the strain around my eyes from a long day spent watching the Cham dancing: lama dances. And trying to get a good angle for a camera that's only good use now is to dispay the magnificent color. Talk about abstract. A few close ups come into focus but it's now a 2% chance that a given photo will take.

but it's been a long day anyway for everybody...

this morning I got up early and walked around the lake watching the sun rise: pink. Dark forms silhouetted prostrating and bare trees reflected on the mirror surface. The outside kora is lined with bags and fabric laid on the ground for offerings to the poor. this early and they aren't out yet but their spots are deffinetly allocated. my regular food stops being full already I stopped at a new chai stand and had a paper cup full. gone are the days of ceramic cups I used to hear about. however it's still only 5r.

Another round and I hear my local I.T. guy, "Hey, Joe", that's his nickname to me. I've tried to explain that I don't have any guns but it goes over his head. Imagine never having heard Jimi...so now that's my nickname for him.

He looks like he might have had a long night so coming around to the "hotels" (just another word for a restaurant) I offer him a chai. We're in Topchen upstairs just across the street from the Nyinma Gonpa G.H. watching the crowds. Everybody is in their finest chuba, blanket, wool jacket/vest or kira. We're having fun locating groups by how they're dressed. Having spent the summer travelling through most of the areas where these folks are from I'm doing pretty good, there's just one blanket style that has me stumped. It's a heavy, natural thing folded into pleats in the back and belted so the top hangs over and back down. the only color is a red stripe with some dark designs on it...the one thing giving me any clue is that they also wear a himachali cap...so they deffinitely aren't from farther north than Lahaul. Zangpo, Jimi, says they're from Kinnaur. That could be, I was moving fast through kinnaur and didn't get to as many places. It was apple season when I got there.

Later in the morning it was costumes of another sort...Cham costumes. The dancing has been going on for a couple days already but since this is the BIG day things were taking longer to get sorted out. fortunately there is usually some sort of comic relief. In this case it was young monks masked as fools making fun and pulling older people onto the stage area to make them dance with them.

Of course before it all began there was the poking and prodding and being told I was too tall before anything was even happening by the little Lahauli ladies. Space...think small...think, make yourself as small as possible. One lady was almost crushed this morning when Dudjom Rinpoche was passing by when everyone around her rushed forward to get a blessing.
People were up on every surface available but one which was impossible to get to...Later I noticed even that one was got to. Then there was no gaurantee that your location would be any good to see around the official camera men and various other obstacles that never seem like obstacles till the performance starts. It's all just a mellee but once your committed to being there that's it... I really mean it cause there is no room to make a path to get out.

Which brings me to the fact the this gonpa is where I'm residing and when the crowd is "in" there's no leaving and when the crowd is "at the gate waiting to come in" there's no leaving and when the crowd is "in" there's no getting to the room so be here where you are and when you want lunch you better just tell tenzin la that you'll take whatever she's got because she doesn't have time for special orders and that includes Thukpa! (noodle soup)

Soooo, mmmmmomo's it will have to be.

time flies when your havin fun

Tso Pema.
Faces of pilgrims change in waves that match the bus schedule. One week they're all from Ladakh, the next Bhutan, next Spiti, Lahaul, & Kinnaur. Now the Tibetans are back. All this means I get to practice saying, "Hello", in several dialects. Losar is comin' up on valentines day. Losar is the day the Tibetans celebrate their new year. This year like last it will be a quiet celebration to remember the loss of lives that have occurred due to peacefull demonstrations this year in Lhasa. Last year it was in Amdo.
In December when I spent another month in Mcleod Ganj I got to watch an incredible theatrical account of the events in Amdo. One which moved the audience into action; one young guy jumped over my seat to get up on the stage and punch out one of the actors who was playing a chinese policeman and goading the audience...
Anyway...here; Tso Pema...pilgrims circumambulate the lake...feed the fish to gain merit...and chase the monkeys when they get too rowdy. This morning I saw some guys with nets actually gettting ready to fish. Hmmm...there's a new take on an old proverb. I'm guessing those fish are fat from all the food but I wouldn't want to eat one.
Last week I had my first bite of chicken in about a year. (I know land of Tandoori and all). Well it was delicious. MMMMmmmmmmgood. Ate half the chicken in the shop and took the other half home for the next days lunch. Punjabi dhaba. I think some far off memory lurks of a time when Floria and I were driving back up through Mexico and hadn't anticipated "O" food opportunities...when we found an isolated "food" stand near Tequilla and got what was quite possibly the worst meal I've ever eaten. Anyway those kind of lingering memories can have an impact on experimentation in other developing nations....I'm not sure how Bourdain does it.
Anyway it turned out to be a great chicken and now will be on my "to do" list at least once a week till I finally get on that proverbial bus home.
Yes, You read it right...my days are numbered. I haven't bought the ticket yet but the inevitable day is coming. The day I cry, cry, cry. The day I have to say "goodbye".
Fortunately there are still allot of places I'm not going to make it to this time....so....I'm already planning where I'll be going when I come back...So stay tuned if you wanna make a trip to Incredible INdia.