Tso Pema.
Faces of pilgrims change in waves that match the bus schedule. One week they're all from Ladakh, the next Bhutan, next Spiti, Lahaul, & Kinnaur. Now the Tibetans are back. All this means I get to practice saying, "Hello", in several dialects. Losar is comin' up on valentines day. Losar is the day the Tibetans celebrate their new year. This year like last it will be a quiet celebration to remember the loss of lives that have occurred due to peacefull demonstrations this year in Lhasa. Last year it was in Amdo.
In December when I spent another month in Mcleod Ganj I got to watch an incredible theatrical account of the events in Amdo. One which moved the audience into action; one young guy jumped over my seat to get up on the stage and punch out one of the actors who was playing a chinese policeman and goading the audience...
Anyway...here; Tso Pema...pilgrims circumambulate the lake...feed the fish to gain merit...and chase the monkeys when they get too rowdy. This morning I saw some guys with nets actually gettting ready to fish. Hmmm...there's a new take on an old proverb. I'm guessing those fish are fat from all the food but I wouldn't want to eat one.
Last week I had my first bite of chicken in about a year. (I know land of Tandoori and all). Well it was delicious. MMMMmmmmmmgood. Ate half the chicken in the shop and took the other half home for the next days lunch. Punjabi dhaba. I think some far off memory lurks of a time when Floria and I were driving back up through Mexico and hadn't anticipated "O" food opportunities...when we found an isolated "food" stand near Tequilla and got what was quite possibly the worst meal I've ever eaten. Anyway those kind of lingering memories can have an impact on experimentation in other developing nations....I'm not sure how Bourdain does it.
Anyway it turned out to be a great chicken and now will be on my "to do" list at least once a week till I finally get on that proverbial bus home.
Yes, You read it right...my days are numbered. I haven't bought the ticket yet but the inevitable day is coming. The day I cry, cry, cry. The day I have to say "goodbye".
Fortunately there are still allot of places I'm not going to make it to this time....so....I'm already planning where I'll be going when I come back...So stay tuned if you wanna make a trip to Incredible INdia.
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Wow! so honored to be in your thoughts so very far away! we are both much more seasoned travelers now, 18 years after the Tequila, Mexico stringy chicken incident...a lone "shack restaurant" literally in the middle of miles of agave fields, where we were too polite to refuse to pay the "four seasons" prices...! i've enjoyed your posts and pics... the colors, the smiles of the people... and how "out there" you're putting yourself... i'd love to support you being a guide for others' journeys to india... so sign me up, girl! ( next winter !!) looking forward to seeing you back in the west... big hug... floria*
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